By Grayson Real
Written in July of 2019 from Fes
I find people fascinating and enjoy photographing people in everyday life. Their individual stories compose a brilliant illustration of the purpose of life. Through my own little looking glass, here are some snippets of people — doing ordinary people things.
“Through my own little looking glass, here are some snippets of people — doing ordinary people things. ”
Resting at Batha
We’ve spent the past three weeks in Fes, living in the heart of the traditional Medina (the “Old City” part of town). All of us lived within walking distance of each other, yet the one point of commonality – where we would start our journeys home or adventures abroad – was the Batha fountain. This was the city’s welcome sign. During exceedingly hot days, children would be splashing around in its large pool. I passed this fountain at least four times a day, yet on our last night in Fes, for some reason, I found the decorative water spout and the small square in front simply beautiful. As dusk settled in, women and children populated the surrounding area, resting on marble slabs and shouting amongst themselves. Men filled the local cafes, slowly sipping coffees and leisurely smoking cigarettes. Taxis zipped by, dropping off those tired from a day’s work before heading off into the distance. I had witnessed this view practically every night for the past few weeks, but this night I finally saw it — the true soul of Fes.
Chefchaouen Stroll
Last weekend we visited Chefchaouen in the northern mountains, popularly known as The Blue City. By far the most aesthetically-pleasing and colorful town we’ve explored, Chefchaouen boasts a unique partnership between nature and city, the purest and most refreshing water coursing through the village’s canals and tiled fountains. Historically, the blue supposedly represented the small Jewish population’s desire to be different from the predominant Muslim one, though the coloring has become a ticket for tourism over the past decades. There are many pictures of this vibrant town, but I favor this one. The iconic blue steps and walls sit in the background; an older resident, pausing briefly before continuing the now strenuous task of descending stairs, assumes the photo’s focus. Though plainly dressed, especially amongst a bright backdrop, he, not the walls, is the one with the most interesting of stories. A mystery it will remain.
Cats, cats + More CAts
Morocco is home to what I think is the world’s largest population of stray cats. They are everywhere. And not only do their meows awaken sleeping bodies, their cat-fights humor wandering passersby, and their mannerisms entertain many. These cats seem to have a mind of their own — one where they are the true inhabitants, and we, the people, are the stray beings. As we strolled through the Medina one day, the pungent smell of fish wafted through the air, and of course, with the fish stand to my right, there were cats abound, pleading with us humans for some food.
Street Soccer
The first weekend we were in Fes we visited the Jewish quarter of town called the Mellah. Similar to the main Medina in Fez, the Mellah offers quite an extensive market and its residential areas flaunt mountains of color. While adults – both young and old – tend to the daily chores of work and upkeep, kids wander the streets, chatting, playing, shouting, giggling, and flitting in and out of each hanoot (store). In alleyways, or derbs (streets with a dead end), there was an occasional fight, passionate conversation, or soccer game. Here, I captured a few youngsters passing a ball around, happily ignoring the intense heat and instead enjoying the company of a fellow friend.
FRuit STands AMidst Chaos
We were only in Meknes, one of the four imperial Moroccan cities, for a few hours, but the city’s incessant energy and cacophonous chaos did not escape us, particularly in El Hedim Square. Monkeys, snakes, parrots, games, magic, music, fruit, bread, chickpeas, and tchotchke galore… Each stand, though clustered close to its neighbor, advertised something; this one offered an abundance of prickly pear. Everyone was moving every which way and I remember noticing just how quickly a bargain began and ended. With so many people, sounds, animals, food, random objects, one would think chaos devoured the square. However, within the evident disarray, there rested a simple connective weave which allowed us to wander about with a seaming ease and unexpected sense of direction.
Sefrou Stream
This past weekend a few of us ventured to a nearby town outside of Fes named Sefrou. Characterized by a smaller Medina but with many water canals and a few waterfalls, the quaint city embodied sweet serenity, offering a quick refuge to those attempting to escape the heat. And so, many people filled the popular water hole and cascade (waterfall). Before observing the actual waterfall, we stopped on a bridge overlooking a stream where children dove into the bubbling body below. Friendly shouts danced with loud splashes and chattering; I watched longingly — only wishing I could be that young again. It was a river of innocence, culture, beauty, and once again, a prized intersection of civilization and nature.
Snacks + Moroccan Red
As I was passing through the Medina, both instant camera and phone camera in tow (Could I get any more touristy?), this young fellow caught my eye. Proudly representing his country by wearing the team’s soccer jersey, he rested under the archway in an unassuming way. What captured my curiosity were his crossed legs and relaxed demeanor — one carefully munching on a bag of snacks, as if the task required a bit more concentration than your average dinner table engagement. He just sat and watched, observing the world through an “untutored eye,” as Stephen Brakhage writes in his work Metaphors on Vision. When an older man dressed in white strolled by, I thought about the exceptional relationship between the old and young here in Morocco. Though indeed challenged with preserving tradition in the face of modernity, Moroccans maintain a strong sense of community, continuing to engage each member regardless of age. It is the elders that guide the youngsters, placing their legacies in their children and the generations of the future.
Orange Medina
Filled with people, things, animals, and food, Medinas are just the Moroccan form of cities…but much more entertaining and efficient. Bargaining is a skill, and navigating the narrow walkways is an accomplishment. I still remember how proud I was of myself to walk back through the Medina to my homestay on my own. They are the ancient cities that seem to never sleep.